The fashion industry is caught between tradition and technology in its choice of core materials: cotton or polyester. Cotton has long been celebrated as a natural, biodegradable, and renewable fiber, but it faces criticism over its high water consumption and environmentally taxing agricultural practices. As global cotton production stalls at around 25 million tons annually, it struggles to meet the demands of an industry that now produces over 100 billion garments each year. Polyester has filled the gap with remarkable speed, now representing 54% of global fiber consumption. Made from fossil fuels, polyester is cheap and versatile, making it the backbone of fast fashion—but at a heavy environmental cost.

Each year, polyester production consumes 342 million barrels of oil and sheds vast quantities of microplastics into waterways through washing and wear. These particles are now a serious threat to ocean ecosystems and human health. Meanwhile, cotton’s market share has declined to just 24%, down from 60% in the 1960s, despite efforts from initiatives like the Better Cotton Initiative to make cotton farming more sustainable. In Turkey, where 10% of cotton is grown to “better cotton” standards, an additional step has been taken: the launch of a GMO-free cotton program in compliance with EU biosafety laws.

The “GMO-Free Turkish Cotton” project, led by the Izmir Commodity Exchange and ITHIB, is designed to position Turkish cotton as a trusted, ethical alternative in the global supply chain. Yet challenges remain: climate change and outdated cultivation techniques may further reduce the viability of cotton fields. Experts argue that material innovations alone aren’t enough—what’s needed is a consumer shift toward fewer, better-quality garments. If fashion is to truly embrace sustainability, it must rethink not just its fibers but its entire pace.